It’s Getting Hot in Here!

Always such drama. And the temps keep rising. We found out just before we went to Jerusalem on Monday that our “host” was unaware of our even being invited – it was a third party invite – so we had to scramble like the dickens to find anything available on the evening and day of a major holiday. Crazy, no? Pressure, no? Luckily, there were none of the usual tens of thousands of tourists that flood the city during a holy time, and we managed to find a gorgeous room right at the Old City Walls for an incredibly cheap price.

I was smart enough to bring our own food from home as EVERYTHING closes around 2pm from markets to transportation on the evening of a holiday or Sabbath. And to bring my all-white clothes, as is customary to wear on Shavuot, the Feast of Weeks or the Giving of the 10 Commandments to Moses at Mt. Sinai.

The next day we finally met up with our friends at the Hurvah Synagogue to hear the Torah reading of the Ten Commandments. Two of the men and their wives had been up all night studying the book of Ruth, the Torah and other subjects. This is traditional for Shavuot. Something I used to do a few years ago – I am now sorry I didn’t attend the women’s study sessions. But as young as they were, they were pretty exhausted when we met.

Shavuot marks the birth and the death of King David. I did not realize this. So we went to David’s tomb, which was pretty packed. The Upper Room where Jesus celebrated the Last Supper is located in the same building just above David. I also had not realized this. It was locked, but the roof access was open, so we went up there to pray and to chat. There were a few people already up there, including a group from Hong Kong, of all places. So a lady we spoke with was kind enough to take a photo of us.

Max came home for the day to babysit our doggie (a spoiled rotten long-haired dachshund, Haggis). Usually I don’t answer my phone on Shabbat or holidays, but the buzzing wouldn’t stop and was driving me nuts. By 9:30 I must have gotten more than 50 buzzes, so I finally checked, just to see if Max needed something, or if, G-d forbid, there was another attack.

It turns out the IDF hit a really high level Hizbulla commander on Sunday night. This combined with the hostage rescue in Gaza and Hizbulla’s solidarity with Hamas, and they were angry, angry, angry. And wanted to teach us a lesson. From Tuesday night through Wednesday there were over 200 rockets/missiles directed at the Upper and Lower Galilee and the Golan Heights. Our friends’ daughter served as an IDF nurse at the hospital in Tsfat. When David, Jocelyn’s dad, picked her up at 9, they were dodging shrapnel the whole way home. Our friends in Korazin, in Migdal, in Tiberias spent most of the morning in their bomb shelters. All the people in the Sea of Galilee hotels who’ve been displaced by the war since October were even more traumatized. Katsrin and other locations in the Golan received direct hits as did Metulla and Kiryat Shmona. Fires caused by incendiary carrying drones from Lebanon were burning in many places. Even towns far south like Cana, Tura’an, Mughar (all Muslim), Tavor (as in Mt Tabor), and the Jezreel Valley were hit.

So it’s been pretty incessant for the last two days. The jets and copters are once again nonstop strafing the skies here – all day and all night. Don’t know if it’s recon, retaliatory or just to let Hizbulla and proxies know we’re still in the game? And the outdoor temps are reaching a sizzling 99*/39* throughout the weekend. I feel so badly for the firefighters and the troops out there in all their protective gear. And we just heard the rumor that the IDF got Nasralla’s brother (head of Hizbulla) in an air strike in Lebanon early this morning. So we expect “the temperatures to climb” even higher this weekend.

I went out early this morning to do some grocery shopping. Every morning I recite Psalm 121 It’s become one of my favorites (YouTube Omer Adam singing ‘Esa Einai,’ the Psalm in Hebrew!!!). “I lift my eyes to the mountains, from whence comes my help. My help comes from the L-rd…” So these days as we’re driving I lift my eyes continually to the next mountain ridge over. Except I’m looking for drones and missiles and interceptions. And trying to figure out where the next community shelter is. The International Council of Christians and Jews has placed 24person concrete bunkers on every other corner. Thank you US givers!! It’s become an interesting life for us….but we still feel safer here than anywhere else. So far only four people have been mildly injured from shrapnel here. I think there are angels up there watching over us.

So we are now beginning to hear ‘the rest of the story’ of how the actual rescue of the four hostages earlier this week went down. It was like a Fauda episode, only it was real life. Undercover elite Israeli spies who spoke fluent Arabic, including women disguised in burkas and hijabs, posed as wealthy Gazans, Hamas associates escaping the IDF in Rafiah, rented a house in the Nuseirat neighborhood. They were there to gather intelligence, to confirm suspicions that Noa Argamani was being held in the vicinity. Super-cool, nu?

They confirmed not only Noa, but the three men down the street being held by the journalist. The spies vacated in undercover cars and on foot on 5 June, and Yamam elite began the planning and training that night. The mission was executed the next morning. The captives were all safely rescued, but complications arose due to heavy fire from the Hamas terrorists embedded in the neighborhood. It seemed every home in the area had someone with a gun, an RPG or grenade. Cmdr. Arnon Zamora, 36, fathers of 2, was killed in the melee. Gaza Health Ministry first said 197, then amended to 436, later revised down to 274 innocent Palestinian civilians were killed. There was no specification of how many of these innocents were actually terrorists.

It’s getting late and I must start food prep and last minute cleaning before Shabbat, but let me leave you with a few bits from the North this morning. All non-necessary clubs, activities, shops, classes, religious or other are canceled in Tsfat, Ma’alot, Nahariyya, Rosh Pina, Sea of Galilee communities (see map). Sirens have sounded in Northern towns all day, although now it seems quiet. The smoke makes me feel like I’m back in Southern California during brushfires season. We are thoroughly prepared and as the Brits say, we ‘keep calm and carry on.’ Like, what else can one do? We had volunteered to go cherry picking in the Golan with friends next week, it now, it looks like that will be canceled. Again, this harvest season, much of the produce is going unpicked. Hopefully soon-

In the meantime, I wish us all a very peaceful and very quiet, and very relaxing weekend. Until next week💙🇮🇱💪🏼🙏🏻🩵 אם ישראל חי The people of Israel live.

Sliding into the Weekend

First, I want to thank you, my dear readers. You are the best!! I collected several heartfelt notes and letters both in my messages and direct email for our neighbors, the Aviv family. They lost their son, a beautiful peaceful windsurfer, who fell while on reserve duty in Gaza. I took them in a lovely ribbon-tied envelope last week. Emmi, Ido’s mom, was overwhelmed to tears. Both Emmi and Mark were absolutely shocked to know that people across the globe stand with them and support Israel. Every single Israeli I’m talking with feels so alone now. We all cried and I hugged both Emmi and Dasha (Ido’s fiancée- the wedding was supposed to be next month). We held each other close for a long while. I’ll be taking them another meal next Thursday, so your letters of comfort and encouragement are still wanted.

Speaking of neighbors: it’s time you met a few of my neighbors. Aryeh and Leah are 94 and 92 years old. They were born here and their passports and documents from pre-1948 label them as Palestinians. They were born under British mandated Palestine and their families have been here since the 1800s. They have been married 73 years. Every evening, Aryeh and Leah go on a long neighborhood walk, which is how we first met them.

Leah loved my hollyhocks, so I gave her some seeds. She gave me a gorgeous red amaryllis. I shared my baby Italian and Native American tomato plants with her. Turns out Aryeh was an engineer just like my husband and he worked for years at Raphael, which is very much like Teledyne where John worked. Leah was a school teacher for decades. They are still avid hikers, and have traveled the world with their children and grandchildren. And…… they, too, are “collectors of found objects.”

It’s been a hobby/obsession of mine to pick things up from our travels and walks: flowers to press, shells from the beach, coral (leading to my arrest here the first year), pinecones, fossils and rocks. My kids used to make fun of me. John has gotten used to it and has become a pretty good “picker” himself. So, last week when we visited our neighbors, we were amazed. Geodes, rocks, fossils – each from a special place with a unique history and a story.

This past weekend was the Jewish holiday of Lag b’Omer, a celebration of the Light of Creation, holy Light, the Light of the World through the Scriptures, which is sometimes compared to fire. It also commemorates the life of Rabbi Shimon bar Yochai (Rashbi) and the miracles associated with him. Lag b’Omer is always a huge holiday here in Israel. Whether religious or secular, it’s a fun family festival where huge bonfires are lit. Kids sing and dance around the bonfires and families roast potatoes and eggs and meat wrapped in foil in the hot coals. The ultra religious make a pilgrimage to Mt. Meron, Rashbi’s tomb. This year, because of the war, everything was cancelled. No bonfires. No large gatherings. Especially Meron, which is a closed military area. It’s quite depressing.

Wednesday, John and I decided to drive up to Tsfat, about 30 minutes away. Nestled at the top of a mountain, it’s one of my favorite cities. This is the usually-busy tourist season. We would be having guests and taking them there this time of year. Big Bar Mitzvah and wedding parties would, in normal circumstances, be processing with musical fanfare down the already bustling cobblestones alleyways. Tsfat – sometimes transliterated Safed or Tzfat or Zefat, dates from Biblical times and is one of Israel’s four Holy Cities.

Tsfat was the home of the mystics and kabbalists. Today there are still many ultra Orthodox, but also there the hipsters, the hippies and the artists. Galleries line the streets of the Old City displaying high quality professional artwork like weaving, sculpture, painting, incredible jewelry and various crafts. They are known for their pieces of Judaica. And it’s a great place to shop for presents. We had an engagement party coming up and two weddings, and an anniversary.

The drive up, although always gorgeous scenery-wise, was somber. Much of the area is so close to the border, people are not traveling there. We get drones and missile attacks from Lebanon several times a day. The city was a ghost town. No tourists. Empty streets. Most shops are closed. In Israel, when a person dies, a black and white notice goes up informing the public of who died, where the funeral and where/when house of mourning will be held. This time in Tsfat, posters were plastered throughout the city. Death notices. A sad but also clever way of saying the city and its businesses had died.

Luckily, the candle shop was open. Safed Candles are amazing handmade, all-beeswax candles…for Shabbat, Havdalah, Chanukah and every day use. Plus this business, open for over 50 years, has lots of other beautiful Judaica. And now, because there is no business, everything was on sale. To fulfill a request from my oldest daughter I bought 6 pairs of long golden beeswax tapers for only about $15. She’ll be delighted. Plus I scored a few other colorful handmade gifts. One other gallery was open. We felt so sorry for the shop owner who had four small kids and no income for nearly eight months. So we bought a few items: Roman glass earrings for my daughters, an engagement gift and anniversary gift.

all-beeswax candles…for Shabbat, Havdalah, Chanukah and every day use. Plus this business, open for over 50 years, has lots of other beautiful Judaica. And now, because there is no business, everything was on sale. To fulfill a request from my oldest daughter I bought 6 pairs of long golden beeswax tapers for only about $15. She’ll be delighted. Plus I scored a few other colorful handmade gifts. One other gallery was open. We felt so sorry for the shop owner who had four small kids and no income for nearly eight months. So we bought a few items: Roman glass earrings for my daughters, an engagement gift and anniversary gift.

We stopped to admire the views from Tsfat. Mount Meron, which has been shelled daily (it’s a high point, literally, and a military intelligence installation. The day was so clear, there was no trouble at all seeing directly over the mountains into Lebanon – now all Hizbulla. Thankfully, there was no action, but John couldn’t leave quickly enough.

The highlight of our week happened last night. We were invited to an irusim, an engagement party. John had coached Pri’el in baseball as a kid and now he’s marrying his sweetheart, Bat’El. The cutest couple! But I’d never been to this type of party. The bride is from a Mizrachi Jewish family (Mid Eastern) and they have their own traditions. I was expecting a short, informal religious ritual where a rabbi blesses the newly engaged couple, basically a formal betrothal. I was totally wrong. No ceremony. No religious service.

Once again, most of the women were dressed fairly elegantly. Nope, not me. I kinda stuck out like an American sore thumb… and John in a short sleeve Hawaiian shirt. What were we thinking? We’ve been to funerals and weddings where people wore jeans, but the Mizrachi are different. Or rather we were- the men wore jackets, the women nice dresses. The young friends of Pri’El…. very casual, several in army uniforms.

The bride’s dowry and a gift table was set up for everyone to see. Gifts from the bride’s parents. All beautiful housewares – in white and black and gold. All wrapped beautifully in cellophane with silver or black ribbon. And my rainbow colored gift bag from America that said congratulations with the colorful tissue paper tucked inside. Totally out of place.

The music! Live DJ, drummers, guys singing these melodiously Arabic sounding Hebrew songs. The bride and groom-to-be wore all white. And the food! Hors-doeuvres, salads of the Middle Eastern variety (Baba ganoush, dolma, tabbouleh, humous, lox, pickled fish, cabbage salads, lentil salad….). Then the first course- skewered salmon grilled over a fire. Wow. Then the large platters of meat – kabobs, sausages, brisket, steak pieces). So the party was at 7:30. And I had made dinner and we ate beforehand. Oooopps!

And of course, the dancing. The guys all dancing separately from the girls in circles. The joy. Spontaneous eruptions in different places. And then the young couple and friends sneaking out into the courtyard for a dance together…but never touching. All so pure, and innocent, beautiful and joyful.

After all the food and dance, the father of the bride-to-be presented his future son-in-law with a magnificent gold watch. Rolex??? Then our good friends, the parents of the groom presented Bat’El with gold earrings, a necklace, bracelet and ankle bracelet. It is a tradition in the Mizrachi culture to give gifts of gold.

Then came the next high point. The engaged couple paraded through the room like prince and princess with families behind. Then the bride’s mom and the Kallah instructor (the bride has a special female escort and instructor of the laws of family purity…well save that one for another time) handed a crystal bowl filled with chocolate pudding??? and two candles to Bat’El. They each lit a candle. They then took the bowl of pudding???? with the lite candles and proceeded to wave it in circles over the heads of the engaged couple. So weird. While the chazzan chanted and the people clapped along. PriEl’s friends were dancing on the chairs – it was very very cool.

O.K. So I found out it wasn’t pudding. Or mud. Or a bowl of poo. It was Hannah. And now the ceremony begins as the bride’s mother and grandmother henna’d the palms of the engaged couple. And put a cool seal on to, tying it behind the hand. And next all the women line up to get their hands henna’d too.

By this time, it was getting on to midnight, and the desserts and rest of the festivities were going strong. We were beyond exhausted so John and I took our leave. It was quite the cultural experience- and a lot of fun. But now, preparations for Shabbat begin in earnest, so…more news next week.

Please, if you haven’t already done so, I ask you to write little notes of comfort for and solidarity with the grieving Aviv family. I will present them next Thursday. I can’t tell you how much a little note means to these people. To know they are not alone. Just put them in the comments section. And have a peaceful, relaxing weekend.

Making the Connection

IMG_0862The United States today is facing a time of the erasure of its history; “cultural misappropriation” and confusion; fractioned families; identity confusion. Colleges and universities have been taken over by waves of anti-Semitism, anti-Zionism, and Boycott, Divest and Sanction programs against Israel. There has been an ongoing bias in the UN and in the media against Israel.  Also, there has been a growing shift towards secularism and away from any and all religion. How then to connect the Jewish young adult to his/her heritage? How does one foster a connection to Judaism, to the land of Israel, to awaken a dormant spirituality, to create a sense of heritage, belonging, and identity?

Aaron Botzer, who immigrated to Israel in the late 1970s has done exactly that. From humble beginnings in the scenic mountain town of ancient Tsfat in the Upper Galilee, Aaron has cobbled together an amazing program for Jewish young adults. Livnot U’Lehibanot, Build and Be Built, is a program like no other in Israel. It is a holistic, physically and spiritually challenging Jewish experience that connects the participants to their heritage and community in an open environment. Combining hiking through the beautiful countryside while learning about the history, the land, the ecological balance, and the flora and fauna is only one experience to feed the soul. Through nature, hands-on experiences, seminars, connection to the local community, field trips, and unique cultural opportunities, the soul is elevated and can make connections not otherwise drawn.

Situated in the mystical city of old Tsfat, which is literally built atop layers and layers of history provides another advantage. Not only are the youth able to enjoy the artsy and spiritual vibes of this unique place, but the Livnot Center itself, is built on a most amazing archaeological site, the Kahal. Located on a 700 square meter site, in the heart of Tsfat’s ancient, Jewish quarter, are underground stone passageways and tunnels leading to rooms, structures, ritual bathing pools (mikvaot), synagogues, and homes from the 16th century, Tsfat’s Golden Age. The participants in this program spend time actually working on the ongoing excavations and renovations of the site. It provides a unique hands-on opportunity to connect with the past as well as to enjoy all that it offers in the present. There is a large communal hall that has been unearthed and restored. It contains wood-burning ovens from the 1500s, where today, pizza is made and challah is baked. The carved-out stone seating area along the walls of this spacious stone room is lined with richly colored Middle Eastern pillows and cushions – a perfect place for seminars, musical concerts and just hanging out.

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Livnot U’Lehibanot is not only concerned with the past, but community service programs and opportunities to volunteer within the local communities provide a link to present-day Israel. There are seminars and group discussions led by leading experts in different fields. Also, there are interactive workshops, in art and music, challah making, cooking, folk dance, ecology and sustainability, and spirituality. Fantastically fun and spirit-filled Shabbat celebrations are another highlight of the program. There are classes in leadership training as well, as the future leaders of society make up the different groups.

This life-changing program is not affiliated with any particular denomination of Judaism, which is very unique here in Israel. The philosophy behind this is that all denominations have the ability to influence one another for the good of all. There is no pressure on the youth to go one way or another, just to enjoy and grow from the experience. There are many different paths of Jewish spirituality that vary from individual to individual. It is quite open-minded in its holistic approach, which helps bridge many gaps. Ultimately, to form a bond with the Almighty, with Judaism, and with the land of Israel is the ultimate goal. Here, the young adult will meet many different people from all over the world – not just the States, but Europe, South Africa, Canada, Australia and South America. Trained mentors oversee the activities in a safe and fun environment.

The Livnot programs consist of short term 1 week, 2 weeks, and 6 weeks intensives. Each group consists of no more than 24 youth. The intensives are highly subsidized by generous patrons, making it very affordable indeed (a full week including room and board is only $195/ a six week course runs $500). It is perfect for the person who has made a Birthright trip and wants something more – to take that adventure to a higher level.  There are winter programs, running from December through February; summer programs from May through August; and special holiday programs. Perfect for the university student as well as the post graduate, who is looking for a different kind of spiritual experience. To date, over 1000 alumni of Livnot have completed the program and have gone on to become active young professionals and lay leaders in their own communities back home.

“In retrospect, there has probably been no single life experience                     that has had such a profound effect on my life. I was able to discover what a gold mine was out there for Jewish souls. Shabbat evening, with its candles and sensual setting, was a profound experience of peace and belonging, connection and fulfillment. My life has been forever transformed.”   Avi R., Program T25

” I am reminded of how one week in Tsfat set me on the path of personal legacy. Livnot has been the catalyst of my Jewish journey…my program showed me that being Jewish isn’t about scrambling to save people from being washed out by modern society, but rather that we are privileged to be part of something bigger than ourselves. We are connected to a thriving, growing family and culture that is infused with thousands of years of spirituality and wisdom.”  Abigail C., Program 256

“Life altering is an understatement!”   David B., Program 126

For more information, as a potential participant, or to donate – contact www.livnot.org

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