This is an unusual year here in Israel. For the first time in many years, Passover, the Roman Catholic, Orthodox, Coptic, and general Christian population celebrate concurrently their Holy Week. It is an exciting and special time to visit the Holy Land. This year, convents and hostels are filled with Christian pilgrims – many of them have traveled from Poland, the Philippines, Mexico and South Korea. Jewish people from the United States and Canada have come to celebrate Pesach with family living here. Still, the recent war has kept the multitudes away for the most part.

For the Jews, last Shabbat led right into the Pesach/Passover Seder. Families gathered together. Army units had their Passover Seders in dining halls and in the fields. Everyone celebrated the story of the liberation from Egypt under Pharaoh, the crossing of the Red Sea by Moses and the Children of Israel in Exodus, and ate the festive meal. During the seven days of Chag ha Matzot (the Matzah holiday) or Khol ha Moed, the intermediate days, Israelis head to to the hills and mountains hiking and to the shores of Lake Kinneret (Sea of Galilee) camping. For those that stay in the cities, museums are all free.

As the Seder feasts wound down in the wee hours of last Sunday morning, Holy Week started for the Christians. Thousands gathered with palms for the traditional Palm Sunday walk. Tens of thousands of pilgrims came from all over the world. The crowds were still not as large as in most years, but the festivities started at BethPage at the top of the Mount of Olives, Har Zeitim. The Latin Patriarch and the Franciscan Custos of the Holy Land blessed the palms and the participants in the walk. The Arab Israeli Scouts from Jerusalem, Nazareth and Ibillin led the procession.

The walk starts at the top of Mt. Olives and winds its way down through East Jerusalem. Spectacular views of the Temple Mount, Old City and all of Jerusalem are one of the high points of the walk which traces the path of Jesus from the starting point to its finish within the Holy City. The entire walk is about 3 miles. As in the Gospel accounts, people wave palm and olive branches and sing Hosannas and great Hallels. Security is tight with armed soldiers ready against any act of terror. Helicopters circle overhead for added protection for the walkers.

And even Jesus showed up for photo ops…

On Wednesday, Maronite Catholics, indigenous Arameans and Lebanese and Syrian Catholics living in the Holy Land, celebrated the blessing of the Holy Oils and the lighting of the Blessed Candles. Their congregations are mostly to be found throughout the North, where the majority of the Christian population is either Maronite of Orthodox Christian. Their population centers are Nazareth, Fassuta, Jish, Me’ilya, Tarshicha, Ibillin and Sh’faram.

Yesterday, the Orthodox Christians (Greek, Russian, Eastern) and the Roman Catholics celebrated Holy Thursday, the beginning of the Triduum, or three-day holy period, concurrently. Eastern rite/Orthodox priests and patriarchs led the procession through their churches with the carrying of the cross for their congregation to venerate.

Cardinal Pierbatista Pizzaballa, the Latin Patriarch, commenced the Catholic liturgies at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. There was a solemn procession from the place of the crucifixion to the stone where Jesus was wrapped and then throughout the church to the tomb where Jesus was interred. The faithful gathered to reverence, kiss and touch objects to the holy stone slab.

As soon as the Roman Catholic rite was finished, the church was cleared so the Orthodox worshippers could celebrate their liturgy. This is scheduled to happen throughout the weekend.

For the first time, in order to to accommodate all branches of the faith, the Roman Catholics will hold their Easter Vigil at the Holy Sepulchre very early in the morning – 06:30 am on Saturday morning. “Catholics must enter the New Gate between 05:30 and 06:00 am. After 06:00 am, the gate will be closed for entry to the Vigil Mass. Entry into the Basilica will be difficult due to extensive security apparatus in place on this day for the Orthodox Holy Fire ceremony. All those participating in the Latin Mass, will be obliged to leave the church after he Mass. No one will be permitted to remain, as the entire church will be cleared for the Orthodox worshippers.”

The Orthodox Holy Fire is the oldest recorded continual miracle. It has occurred in the Holy Sepulchre…the tomb where Jesus’ body laid… for 2000 years. The Orthodox priest enters the sepulchre at midnight with the Paschal candle and waits in darkness as the worshippers congregate throughout the basilica with their candles. A blue fire comes down and miraculously lights the candles. The flames burn cold for about 10 minutes afterward. This will be the eternal flame from the pascal candle that burns throughout the year in Jerusalem. You can view the entire spectacle onYouTube. It is quite fascinating!

Passover ends this Shabbat for the Jewish people. Saturday night, as the Christians celebrate the start of Easter, Jews in Israel will be celebrating Maimouna. This party at the conclusion of Passover, comes from Morocco. But it has taken hold of the entire Jewish population here. It is a time of great merriment as pastries and tea and candies are piled high on golden trays. The revelers wear bright colors and lots of gold jewelry. There is music and dancing and fun to be had by all.

I wish all of my readers a meaningful, holy and happy feast. Next year I Jerusalem!!!!