Bah humbug!!!

It’s that time of year, Friends! The holidays in Israel. Chanukah. Christmas. Novigod. Sylvester. Usually a time for huge celebrations- if you know where to look.
In the North of Israel are two gorgeous communities that are exclusively Christian. The decorations get brighter each year. The Christmas markets get bigger each year. It’s a place for Christian tourists and for interested Jews. Fasuta lies smack dab on the Lebanese border.



Fasuta has a lovely third century Byzantine church and a grand market each year featuring Arabic foods and music, costumed guides and gorgeous light displays. Midnight Mass is celebrated in both the Melkite and Greek Orthodox traditions. Plus there’s an incredibly fun genuine Irish pub there. Who would’ve guessed?
This year it’s lights out, nobody home…except soldiers and tanks. Fasuta has been completely evacuated. So far they’ve seen no Hizbulla missile action- let’s hope it stays that way. But there will be no Christmas celebrations for them. So, let’s move on, shall we?
Not far from Fasuta is Mi’ilya. Another exclusively Christian town on top of a mountain. Theirs is an amazing history. Ancient 1st century wine presses. Ancient Jewish burial caves. A phenomenal Crusader castle which is now a boutique hotel and 5 star Michelin chef restaurant, Chateau duRoi. At the top of the mountain is a large Byzantine Church which, along with the town, gets all decked out for the holidays.




They have Christmas parades and a living nativity attracting tourists from all over the world. The Christian communities in Fasuta and Mi’ilya have been there for centuries, but due to Muslim persecution of Christians in other Northern cities, more families have moved in and the communities are closed for the most part (to living there if you are not of that faith).
Regardless, Mi’ilya will be celebrating this year on a very limited basis. Because you know: the war. Rockets. A few occasional sirens at sunrise and sunset (really). Unidentified aerial invasions. That sort of thing. So tourists….be cautious. There will be lights around the town and private homes and Advent services and Mass. No markets. No parades. No food trucks. They are fairly close to Lebanon, but not too close-
We’ll now move on to the birthplace of Christianity. Nazareth. Hometown of Mary and Joseph. And the young Jesus. Nazareth is famous for the largest church in the Middle East, the Basilica of the Virgin Mary. The church is built directly over the ruins of Mary’s home, the site of the Annunciation. The famed Mary’s Well is there, with a gorgeous Orthodox Church built adjacent to it. Icons. Incense. Frescoes.
Nazareth used to be 98% Christian: Greek Orthodox, Melkite, Latin Rite, Baptists and Anglicans. Due to religious, social and economic persecution by the Muslims who have moved in, Nazareth is down to about a 20% Christian population. Most have moved to communities further north or overseas. The convents and monasteries now have high walls surrounding them, like fortresses.
Nazareth was world famous for having the largest Christmas tree in the Middle East. Fantastic Christmas parades including bagpipers from the local scouts and churches, drummers, fireworks, food stalls and Christmas markets featuring local products and carved olive wood nativities.





Because the mayor and municipality (city council) is majority Muslim, there will be no Christmas tree. No lights. No fireworks. No markets. Nope. Nada. Zilch. The Grinch has come to Nazareth because you know. Israel. They started the war. The Isra-ellies. They persecute the Palestinians. Seriously. It’s a true fact. Call the municipality yourself. My Christian friends there are really really mad. Despite the fact israel is now closed to tourists, people come from all over Israel to worship and to celebrate. There will be the usual Advent services and Christmas Masses, but basically it’s lights out for Nazareth. And truly, it’s another way to hurt the Christians who have nothing to do with the Israeli government or the war at all. Humbug.
Same with Deir Hannah and Deir Al Assad and other mixed communities. Double humbug. The verdict is still out on Haifa. Whatever the Christmas celebrations will be, they are sure to be toned way down.
Chabad and the NaNachs are going to be driving up and down the streets of Haifa with brilliant car menorahs on top for Chanukah. They will be blaring joyous music out of their gigantic loudspeakers and throwing candy to the children. Seriously a fun event.



Oy. Chanukah! Oy Chanukah!!!! There’s literally no place like Chanukah Israeli style!! I went to Tel Aviv yesterday. And they are getting ready!!!!




We stopped by IKEA for a few necessities. They were totally in the Chanukah mood. Everywhere- if you’re Jewish and living outside of Israel, think about moving here. Seriously. It’s your home.








Menorahs/Chanukiyyas everywhere. Even fake potato latkes and sufganiot (jelly donuts). And speaking of donuts….!!!! Roladin (bakeries) is off the hook. Israeli Chanukah donuts are seriously a high art form. Soldiers get free donuts and coffee and potato latkes, grilled meats, donuts and fried sweets will be flooding the bases this year. You can count on it.









Each municipality will have official menorah/chanukiyya lighting ceremonies every night in multiple locations. In Tzfat (my favorite) you can visit the burial cave of the martyrs, Channah and her seven sons who refused to bow down to the Greco-Assyrian Antiochus’ evil decrees. At night, the ancient city is awash in the glow of outdoor Chanukiyyas. There will be musical tours, although limited this year, because….the war.




In Modi’in you can visit the fields where Judah Macabee fought his great battles. Then the tombs of the Macabee fighters. Unfortunately the great festivities, fairs and concerts will be limited and subdued, because…
I’m still not sure how Jerusalem will celebrate. Usually they have the walls lit up for the holiday and the citywide Festival of Lights. This year, I’m not sure. Security is more than tight. Most men 18-65 are on duty as soldiers- or reservists. So….
I know they’ll be lighting menorahs in Gaza for the first time in decades.

Now for the big news: Bethlehem. Yup Christmas again. Birthplace of Jesus. Bethlehem had always been about 99% Christian. Once it fell under the Palestinian Authority governance, things changed and now they are less than 2%. It’s almost all Muslim.
Bethlehem at Christmas was always jam packed with tourists from every country.Christians thronged to Bethlehem Square. The lights and decorations were amazing or so I’m told. This year, the mayor, Islamic said “No lights. No parades. No concerts. No trees. No decorations.” Why? I think you already know the answer: the Jews. Yes, my friends. Because of the Isra-ellies there will be no joy in Bethlehem this year. I’m guessing even the star will be outlawed. Anyway, there are no tourists, so…
As usual, for the past several years there will remain one lone tree in Bethlehem Square. It’s the infamous martyrs tree. It’s a real thing. The giant evergreen will once again be adorned with the photos and names of all the terrorists that have been killed (literally shot in the act of committing an stabbing or shooting or bomb planting or car ramming) by IDF soldiers. Because you know, the Isra-ellies.
Just got the news: Christmas in Palestine is being cancelled this year by all the major churches. There will be absolutely no festivities this year in Bethlehem, Jerusalem, Nazareth or any other towns say leaders of the Orthodox, Catholic, Lutheran, Methodist, Presbyterian, Baptist and others. There will instead hold solemn cinvocations this year. In lieu of a crèche some churches will place a baby Jesus wrapped in a kefiyyeh under a pile of rubble. (I tried to upload the link but the AP wouldn’t let me, so see for yourself. Pastor Isaac Munther, Evangelical Lutheran Church). Honestly I just can’t make this up.
I’m really not trying to be insensitive to Christians or innocent Gazan civilians, but I thought it was comfort and joy, a birth that changed the world. A time of celebration. I guess I’m wrong. Bah. Humbug…. We’re all a bit Scrooged this year-






