War stories: Holiday update 6 December, 2023

Bah humbug!!!

Haifa multicultural holiday 2022

It’s that time of year, Friends! The holidays in Israel. Chanukah. Christmas. Novigod. Sylvester. Usually a time for huge celebrations- if you know where to look.

In the North of Israel are two gorgeous communities that are exclusively Christian. The decorations get brighter each year. The Christmas markets get bigger each year. It’s a place for Christian tourists and for interested Jews. Fasuta lies smack dab on the Lebanese border.

Fasuta has a lovely third century Byzantine church and a grand market each year featuring Arabic foods and music, costumed guides and gorgeous light displays. Midnight Mass is celebrated in both the Melkite and Greek Orthodox traditions. Plus there’s an incredibly fun genuine Irish pub there. Who would’ve guessed?

This year it’s lights out, nobody home…except soldiers and tanks. Fasuta has been completely evacuated. So far they’ve seen no Hizbulla missile action- let’s hope it stays that way. But there will be no Christmas celebrations for them. So, let’s move on, shall we?

Not far from Fasuta is Mi’ilya. Another exclusively Christian town on top of a mountain. Theirs is an amazing history. Ancient 1st century wine presses. Ancient Jewish burial caves. A phenomenal Crusader castle which is now a boutique hotel and 5 star Michelin chef restaurant, Chateau duRoi. At the top of the mountain is a large Byzantine Church which, along with the town, gets all decked out for the holidays.

They have Christmas parades and a living nativity attracting tourists from all over the world. The Christian communities in Fasuta and Mi’ilya have been there for centuries, but due to Muslim persecution of Christians in other Northern cities, more families have moved in and the communities are closed for the most part (to living there if you are not of that faith).

Regardless, Mi’ilya will be celebrating this year on a very limited basis. Because you know: the war. Rockets. A few occasional sirens at sunrise and sunset (really). Unidentified aerial invasions. That sort of thing. So tourists….be cautious. There will be lights around the town and private homes and Advent services and Mass. No markets. No parades. No food trucks. They are fairly close to Lebanon, but not too close-

We’ll now move on to the birthplace of Christianity. Nazareth. Hometown of Mary and Joseph. And the young Jesus. Nazareth is famous for the largest church in the Middle East, the Basilica of the Virgin Mary. The church is built directly over the ruins of Mary’s home, the site of the Annunciation. The famed Mary’s Well is there, with a gorgeous Orthodox Church built adjacent to it. Icons. Incense. Frescoes.

Nazareth used to be 98% Christian: Greek Orthodox, Melkite, Latin Rite, Baptists and Anglicans. Due to religious, social and economic persecution by the Muslims who have moved in, Nazareth is down to about a 20% Christian population. Most have moved to communities further north or overseas. The convents and monasteries now have high walls surrounding them, like fortresses.

Nazareth was world famous for having the largest Christmas tree in the Middle East. Fantastic Christmas parades including bagpipers from the local scouts and churches, drummers, fireworks, food stalls and Christmas markets featuring local products and carved olive wood nativities.

Because the mayor and municipality (city council) is majority Muslim, there will be no Christmas tree. No lights. No fireworks. No markets. Nope. Nada. Zilch. The Grinch has come to Nazareth because you know. Israel. They started the war. The Isra-ellies. They persecute the Palestinians. Seriously. It’s a true fact. Call the municipality yourself. My Christian friends there are really really mad. Despite the fact israel is now closed to tourists, people come from all over Israel to worship and to celebrate. There will be the usual Advent services and Christmas Masses, but basically it’s lights out for Nazareth. And truly, it’s another way to hurt the Christians who have nothing to do with the Israeli government or the war at all. Humbug.

Same with Deir Hannah and Deir Al Assad and other mixed communities. Double humbug. The verdict is still out on Haifa. Whatever the Christmas celebrations will be, they are sure to be toned way down.

Chabad and the NaNachs are going to be driving up and down the streets of Haifa with brilliant car menorahs on top for Chanukah. They will be blaring joyous music out of their gigantic loudspeakers and throwing candy to the children. Seriously a fun event.

Oy. Chanukah! Oy Chanukah!!!! There’s literally no place like Chanukah Israeli style!! I went to Tel Aviv yesterday. And they are getting ready!!!!

We stopped by IKEA for a few necessities. They were totally in the Chanukah mood. Everywhere- if you’re Jewish and living outside of Israel, think about moving here. Seriously. It’s your home.

Menorahs/Chanukiyyas everywhere. Even fake potato latkes and sufganiot (jelly donuts). And speaking of donuts….!!!! Roladin (bakeries) is off the hook. Israeli Chanukah donuts are seriously a high art form. Soldiers get free donuts and coffee and potato latkes, grilled meats, donuts and fried sweets will be flooding the bases this year. You can count on it.

Each municipality will have official menorah/chanukiyya lighting ceremonies every night in multiple locations. In Tzfat (my favorite) you can visit the burial cave of the martyrs, Channah and her seven sons who refused to bow down to the Greco-Assyrian Antiochus’ evil decrees. At night, the ancient city is awash in the glow of outdoor Chanukiyyas. There will be musical tours, although limited this year, because….the war.

In Modi’in you can visit the fields where Judah Macabee fought his great battles. Then the tombs of the Macabee fighters. Unfortunately the great festivities, fairs and concerts will be limited and subdued, because…

I’m still not sure how Jerusalem will celebrate. Usually they have the walls lit up for the holiday and the citywide Festival of Lights. This year, I’m not sure. Security is more than tight. Most men 18-65 are on duty as soldiers- or reservists. So….

I know they’ll be lighting menorahs in Gaza for the first time in decades.

Now for the big news: Bethlehem. Yup Christmas again. Birthplace of Jesus. Bethlehem had always been about 99% Christian. Once it fell under the Palestinian Authority governance, things changed and now they are less than 2%. It’s almost all Muslim.

Bethlehem at Christmas was always jam packed with tourists from every country.Christians thronged to Bethlehem Square. The lights and decorations were amazing or so I’m told. This year, the mayor, Islamic said “No lights. No parades. No concerts. No trees. No decorations.” Why? I think you already know the answer: the Jews. Yes, my friends. Because of the Isra-ellies there will be no joy in Bethlehem this year. I’m guessing even the star will be outlawed. Anyway, there are no tourists, so…

As usual, for the past several years there will remain one lone tree in Bethlehem Square. It’s the infamous martyrs tree. It’s a real thing. The giant evergreen will once again be adorned with the photos and names of all the terrorists that have been killed (literally shot in the act of committing an stabbing or shooting or bomb planting or car ramming) by IDF soldiers. Because you know, the Isra-ellies.

Just got the news: Christmas in Palestine is being cancelled this year by all the major churches. There will be absolutely no festivities this year in Bethlehem, Jerusalem, Nazareth or any other towns say leaders of the Orthodox, Catholic, Lutheran, Methodist, Presbyterian, Baptist and others. There will instead hold solemn cinvocations this year. In lieu of a crèche some churches will place a baby Jesus wrapped in a kefiyyeh under a pile of rubble. (I tried to upload the link but the AP wouldn’t let me, so see for yourself. Pastor Isaac Munther, Evangelical Lutheran Church). Honestly I just can’t make this up.

I’m really not trying to be insensitive to Christians or innocent Gazan civilians, but I thought it was comfort and joy, a birth that changed the world. A time of celebration. I guess I’m wrong. Bah. Humbug…. We’re all a bit Scrooged this year-

Welcoming the Light

Almost three months of travel!! We went to England (at the time of the Queen’s funeral) which was indescribably lovely. The occasion: to meet my daughter’s fiancé – who is every bit the quintessential Victorian gentleman – and his family. We fell in love with them all!! So much fun touring the Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and Staffordshire areas. Then my husband and I toured the Lake District of Northwest England, home to Wordsworth, Coleridge, Beatrix Potter, Charlotte Mason, standing stones, and the natural beauty of mountains and lakes just as the leaves were beginning to turn: it was a dream! Our son met us and it was on to Scotland with its castles, whiskey distilleries and highlands. We visited friends in the Highlands, toured Pluscarden Abbey and the Highland Heritage Center (Outlander!) and learned so much about the history and culture of the Scots. Later that month, our daughter got married in St Andrews, Scotland. We were amazed at the family and friends who came from California, New Jersey, Ohio, Virginia & Maryland, Italy, France and Israel. I’m sure I left people out. The wedding itself was the most holy, meaningful, thoughtful ceremony with gorgeous music provided by Tristan’s sister, a trumpet player with the London Phil and my daughter, an opera singer. And the reception was nothing less than an outpouring of love with everyone in attendance helping put it all together the day before and during…. I’ve never experienced such a coming together of friends and families from both sides.

After the wedding, we flew to Los Angeles to welcome our oldest daughter’s newborn baby into our family. The latest little blessing was named after my father and is the easiest, best baby I’ve ever seen. My husband and I were blessed to be able to take him overnight for over a week, and it was pure joy and love. It was hard to give him back. We visited our other daughter north of LA and stayed with a couple super fun grandkids while my daughter and her husband were at work. It was warm enough for my husband to take them swimming, and we watched them, too, for a week. Super fun. We now know every Superhero in the Marvel Universe and can sing Baby Shark in our sleep. On to Seattle to visit our youngest daughter and her wonderful family. Heavy frost on the ground each morning and a brilliant display of color as G-d’s majesty was on full display made for glorious walks with our other granddaughter. The last couple weeks was spent relaxing on a small island off the coast of Northern Florida visiting my husband’s 95 year old father and the Dunbar Clan there. Family, food and football marked our American Thanksgiving in the States.

Unfortunately, my back started to give out again in Los Angeles, limiting our visit to just family in our hotel room. Next time we shall see our friends in California. It finally gave up the ghost in Florida and the 12 hour flight back to Israel was intense to say the least. It’s interesting that we usually have no problem traveling in Europe or America on our Israeli passports or telling people where we are from. There’s so much antiSemitism now and anti-Israel bias that we used our U.S. passports exclusively and told people we were form Los Angeles. Not a lie, but…. How sad is it that there is so much division, mistrust, and baseless hatred in the States currently!!! I’ve never experienced anything like it before. And that it a topic I shall cover in my next blogpost after the holidays – but for now let’s celebrate!!!

It’s holiday time in Israel again, and this year the days are concurrent on the calendar as we welcome the Season of Light in the Holy Land. During the darkest point the of the year, it’s a time of great rejoicing and light. The Jewish people are celebrating the victory of the Maccabees over the Greco-Syrians in 150 BCE and of the Rededication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem, which had been defiled. There was only one small cruze of oil found to light the giant menorah. Only enough to last one day. The first major supply chain shortage. To bring the pure olive oil from the Galilee to Jerusalem would take a week. Miraculously, that little bit of oil lasted eight full days until more oil could be had. Therefore, the celebration of Chanukah lasts eight days and nights. We light our chanukkiahs, our nine- branched menorahs, eat fried foods and jelly-filled donuts, sing songs, play dreidels, spinning tops, and have fun.

Northern Israel is where the majority of the Christians live. Most are Maronite Catholics. The Aramaeans who dwelled in the Galilee region alongside the Jews, and with many Jews in that area, followed Jesus as their Messiah two thousand years ago. They became the first Christians. There are also Greek Orthodox and Byzantine rite Catholics up here. Today, they are full Israeli citizens with all the rights and privileges that offers (except they serve in the army only voluntarily and are exempt from property taxes). The Christian towns of Fassuta and Ma’Ilya and the city of Nazareth are all lit up with Christmas trees and decorations. Christmas markets have just become a thing. And tourism to the area is growing as many of the more secular Jewish population are drawn to the celebrations.

These Christian families are celebrating the birthday of the One who proclaimed to be the Light of the World. As a Jew living in the HolyLand (home to Christians as well as Jews), Jesus was worshipping and celebrating Chanukah at the Temple Mount in the gospel of John. So, in light of unity, we celebrate a common ancestry with each of our Festivals of Light. The Christians here commemorate Christmas differently from Europe or America. Many erect huge nativity scenes in the living rooms of their homes or apartments. Sometimes, they move out much of the furniture, spending much of the Advent weeks building rocks and deserts, inns and villages in miniature with a crèche or manger scene as the focal point. From the midst, the Christmas tree (a more modern tradition) rises.

We have Lebanese Christian friends in Tiberias. Paula makes many varieties of cookies, cakes, puddings and sweets for Christmas. (Their apartment is the above middle photo. You can see the elaborate scene they made – and if you can look out the windows, you will see a magnificent view of the Sea of Galilee at night). My favorite cookies, which are actually kosher, dairy, are the techineh and rose water balls. Melt in your mouth delicious. One bowl. They can’t be easier to put together. I’m making a batch now and can’t wait until they come out of the oven. These cookies freeze well, so I’ll be sure to have them around when my son and his friends come home for Chanukah.

Techineh (tahini) Rose Cookies

(Makes about 50-60 cookies)

  • 3 cups flour
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cup techineh (tahini)
  • 1 tsp baking powder
  • 6 tsp rose water (found in large supers or MidEast stores)
  • 1/2 tsp cardamom
  • 1 stick butter, room temperature
  • optional: sesame seeds, dried rose petals (MidEast markets sell them)

Preheat oven to 150*C/3255*F. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Mix with you hand until the dough sticks together nicely. Form into balls a little smaller than a ping pong ball – about the size of a large walnut. You can roll some in sesame seeds at this point. Space on parchment or slip at lined cookie sheet and bake for 15 minutes. C when they come out of oven, you can gently decorate with pieces of rose petals, dried, organic. Or dust with powdered sugar, sanding sugar or leave plain.

The next recipe is from Lily Cohen. Lily moved here with her husband and three children from just north of Paris about two years ago. They are fairly secular Jews living in Herzliya, a suburb of Tel Aviv. Even though the boys, ages 9 and 11, do not wear a kippah (yarmulke), they were constantly getting bullied in school because of their name. Etienne was on his way home, when he was beaten up by a throng of other boys, kicked numerous times, pelted with stones. The family decided it was time to leave. Daniel, the father, was a fairly respected university professor, and he, too, was feeling the effects of antiSemitism. Now the family is thriving. My son was invited to dinner at their house and called me absolutely RAVING about Madame Cohen’s delicious brisket. I have always made my brisket smothered in onions and a tomato sauce. Very heavy. This is a much lighter, dare I say, French version. I will definitely serve this for Chanukah this year. Can’t wait!!! It’s become my new favorite way to make a brisket.

Lily Cohen’s French Brisket Au Jus

Ingredients:

  • 1 4 pound (2kg) brisket
  • 1 cup beef broth
  • 1 cup white Zinfandel wine (or white grape juice)
  • 1/3 cup strong Dijon mustard
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
  • 2 tsp dried tarragon
  • 1/2 tsp rosemary
  • 1/2 tsp thyme
  • 1tsp sea salt
  • 1/2 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
  • 7-9 shallots, thinly sliced
  • 10-12 mushrooms, sliced medium fine
  • Sear brisket in skillet over high heat on all sides until browned. Sauté shallots and mushrooms in leftover brisket drippings, adding a little oil if needed. In large bowl, stir Dijon into broth incorporating well. Transfer meat to a Dutch oven or baking pot. Pour mustard broth over. Add in wine or grape juice and seasonings. Cook, covered, at 325*F/150*C and bake 25 minutes per pound (50 minutes a kilo). Add in shallots and mushrooms over top in last 15 minutes. The natural gravy is fantastic over the brisket or rice. I’ll be pouring mine over potato latkes.

No matter what feast you will be celebrating, I wish you a happy, healthy and peaceful one. Thank you for your continued readership and I shall see you in 2023.